When I was at the Hebrew U back in '72, wandering through the back alleys of Me'ah She'arim a few days before Pesah, I found an amazing old stone matzah bakery.
With flawless timing and precise choreography, sweating black-clad men with beards covered in flour moved in a well-practiced assembly line.
In the dim and dusty light, one scooped flour and another mixed in water. Another took the dough, pulled off just the right-sized bits and passed them onto a long table with guys on both sides. Two guys hand-rolled the bits into balls and passed them on. A whole line of guys on each side of the table with wooden rolling pins pressed the dough and passed it down the line until it was flat. In a flash, other guys ran a prickly roller over them to poke little perforations in them so they wouldn't even think of rising and then hung them in a row over long, long wooden poles. Still other guys then swung the poles around and, reaching deep into stone ovens, laid down the soon-to-be matzahs on its smooth stone floor so they could bake and be snatched back out again on a long-handled paddle like a pizza baker's -- להבדיל.
All in less than eighteen minutes from the moment the water touches the flour until the dough is baked -- or else it's not kosher for Pesah. That's the rule.
I remembered exactly where it was 28 years earlier. A few days before Pesah, I followed my memories and went back there to find out the best time to bring my family to watch -- and it was gone! Closed. Gornish! Not happening. They don't do it like that any more!
מה לעשות -- What to do?
One old guy in Mahaneh Yehudah told me to go the night before Pesah to an old stone house on the corner just a few blocks away at Ussishkin Street #60. Iraqi Kurdish Jews in the neighbourhood keep that house locked up 364 days a year. No one goes in; no one comes out. Only on the day before Pesah do they turn the lock and open the door. They come in, bake their matzah and lock it up until the next year.
The night before Pesah, we went.
Come through the door with us and see what we found.
In the hub-bub of activity, a young boy scoops up flour and passes it to his grand-dad sitting in a chair behind him, a big basin between his knees. The flour is shmurah -- שמורה -- carefully watched and guarded from the moment the wheat was harvested in the field, as it was milled and bagged, right up to this moment. No water or other moisture whatsoever had come in contact with it -- until just now. That's the defining characteristic of shmurah matzah.
Then, an older brother pours in the water drawn from a well and kept still overnight. Someone starts to keep time. In eighteen minutes the matzah must be baked. The the older man massages flour and water into a dough.
A younger man takes the whole dough and begins to flatten it out. The hand-written sign on the wall declares:
Any bits of dried dough that stick to a table or cling to someone's hands are hereby declared to be ownerless just like the dust of the earth. They belong to no one. Consequently, they are not the property of any Jews and do not violate the religious prohibition against any Jews owning hametz.
Another man cuts the dough into right-sized pieces, weighs them on a scale and then puts them on a long table for other guys to roll into balls.
The sign on the wall behind them says,
After the balls of dough were rolled flat, this woman marked each one with "סימנים" -- simanim or signs. She made straight lines on the matzah, either one line, two or three. I asked her why, what were the simanim for? She said she had no idea but that's what they always do and they have to do it. Never heard of "signs" on the matzah? Ask the rabbi, she said.
He's right here, with the white shirt and black pants.
The rabbi was only too happy to explain. One line is "Yisrael", two is "Levi" and three is "Kohen". That is still a custom that I haven't heard of anywhere else. But then, what do I know?
After the matzahs got their simanim, it was time to roll them with prickly rollers to make the little perforations that prevent rising.
Out of the oven less than eighteen minutes from the water hitting the flour, the finished product is soft and floppy, just like a pita without a pocket. It smells delicious.
These Iraqi Kurdish Jews sell it right away. Neighours line up in the street deep into the night, eager to buy it though a window, take it home for their seders the next night when, from windows, balconies and open doors all over Jewish Jerusalem is heard
Then, an older brother pours in the water drawn from a well and kept still overnight. Someone starts to keep time. In eighteen minutes the matzah must be baked. The the older man massages flour and water into a dough.
A younger man takes the whole dough and begins to flatten it out. The hand-written sign on the wall declares:
כל פרורי חמץ שיפלו אחר זמן
הכיעור הרי הם כעפרא דארעא!א
All bits of hametz that fall after the time of the
basin are as the dust of the earth!
Any bits of dried dough that stick to a table or cling to someone's hands are hereby declared to be ownerless just like the dust of the earth. They belong to no one. Consequently, they are not the property of any Jews and do not violate the religious prohibition against any Jews owning hametz.
Another man cuts the dough into right-sized pieces, weighs them on a scale and then puts them on a long table for other guys to roll into balls.
The sign on the wall behind them says,
"לשם מצת מצוה
for matzah for the mitzvah"
for matzah for the mitzvah"
After the balls of dough were rolled flat, this woman marked each one with "סימנים" -- simanim or signs. She made straight lines on the matzah, either one line, two or three. I asked her why, what were the simanim for? She said she had no idea but that's what they always do and they have to do it. Never heard of "signs" on the matzah? Ask the rabbi, she said.
He's right here, with the white shirt and black pants.
The rabbi was only too happy to explain. One line is "Yisrael", two is "Levi" and three is "Kohen". That is still a custom that I haven't heard of anywhere else. But then, what do I know?
After the matzahs got their simanim, it was time to roll them with prickly rollers to make the little perforations that prevent rising.
And, quick, into the oven! The ovens are large vertical clay pots set into an earthen counter and heated from the bottom -- just like a tandoori oven or a tabun. The baker wears gloves and has a round pad. The rabbi takes a soon-to-be matzah and briskly inspects it. Simanim? Check! Perforations? Check! And then the rabbi puts it on the baker's pad. The baker, in one swift sweep, slaps the still-sticky disk of dough onto the inside wall of the oven. In moments, it bakes and, as it dries, begins to slowly peel off the wall of the oven. The baker has to reach in at exactly the right instant to snatch it off the wall before it peels off completely and falls down into the bottom of the oven.
Out of the oven less than eighteen minutes from the water hitting the flour, the finished product is soft and floppy, just like a pita without a pocket. It smells delicious.
These Iraqi Kurdish Jews sell it right away. Neighours line up in the street deep into the night, eager to buy it though a window, take it home for their seders the next night when, from windows, balconies and open doors all over Jewish Jerusalem is heard
"הא לחמא עניא . . .
Ha lahma 'anya --
Ha lahma 'anya --
This is the bread of affliction which our ancestors ate in the Land of Mitzrayim . . .
all who are hungry, come and eat."
all who are hungry, come and eat."